Development of Topical Formulations For Cosmetic Concerns in the Under-Eye Area

Thesis Type: Postgraduate

Institution Of The Thesis: Istanbul University, Faculty Of Pharmacy , Department Of Pharmaceutical Technology, Turkey

Approval Date: 2023

Thesis Language: Turkish

Student: Vildan Baş

Supervisor: Ebru Altuntaş


In the contemporary context, with the growing significance of individual appearance, dermo-cosmetic products and aesthetic procedures have escalated. Notably, any cosmetic concern of the periorbital region, which stands out as the most conspicuous area of the face, can contribute to an impression of increased age and fatigue in individuals. Given the delicate nature of the skin around the eyes and its unique anatomical attributes, a meticulous assessment is imperative to tailor the most appropriate treatment strategy addressing the root cause.

The cosmetic challenges encountered in the periorbital region can arise from a confluence of multifactorial influences, thus advocating the merit of combined therapies. In light of this, formulation compositions have favoured the inclusion of licorice root extract, renowned for its tyrosinase inhibition activity, and horse chestnut extract, acknowledged for its microvascular venotonic effects.

The primary aim of this thesis is to develop a nanoemulsion formulation using licorice root extract, recognized as safe for dermal application, and horse chestnut extract, which has been applied in the management of edema resulting from venous pathologies. This formulation is intended to be applied as a nanoemulgel to the area around the eyes. Nanoemulgel has been chosen for its facilitation of application to the under-eye region, the targeted site of application, and its potential to enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the skin post-application.

Following the preparation of formulations through the ultrasonication technique, which constitutes a modern pharmaceutical carrier system in the form of nanoemulsion, the addition of xanthan gum gel, a natural polymer, in a 1:1 (w/w) ratio, has been employed to transform them into nanoemulgel. A battery of stability tests was conducted on these formulations. Subsequently, the most suitable formulations assessed the radical scavenging capacity, anti-inflammatory efficacy, and tyrosinase inhibition potential.

Based on the culmination of these tests, it has been deduced that a formulation comprising 2% licorice root extract and 2% horse chestnut extract, surfactant at 10% Q-natural and 2.5% Pluronic F68, and cosurfactant at 2.5% Transcutol HP, presents a compelling solution for addressing cosmetic concerns in the periorbital area. This composite formulation demonstrates the potential to offer supportive measures against periorbital cosmetic challenges.